Day 4 / by John Tsialos

Around Sainshand 

Khamaryn Khiid Monastery, Shambhala and Bayanzurkh Uul (Black Mountain)

We make an early start today and head straight to Khamaryn Monastery. The original monastery and three story theatre was built by the leader of Mongolia’s Red Hat Buddhists, Danzan Ravjaa, who is revered in Mongolia as a living god. The rebuilt temples are alive with activity and local camels  graze in the sand whipped surrounds. Next stop is Ravjaa’s Shambhala site where followers come to chant and pray and undertake several rituals, which Jane enjoyed participating in. You certainly get swept up in the enthusiasm of the activities and perhaps absorb some energy from the spiritual centre. Interesting are the small caves nearby. At the Mother’s Womb visitors enter the cave, give an offering and pray to the mother. 

Next we head to Black Mountain 20kms away. This is the spiritual home of the third Noyon Khutagt (a predecessor of Danzan Ravjaa). Men climb the summit to the wishing Ovoo and whisper their wishes. Women and children’s rituals are at the first hill and temporary lounge, which offers spectacular views.  This is a popular spot and there are some facilities such as toilets and sellers of local dumplings and souvenirs. 

After a long day we head back to Sainshand. At the small city we are welcomed by rain and head indoors to the Natural History Museum. With a good collection of taxidermy Mongolian animals, marine fossils, a Protoceratops skeleton and dinosaur egg and some Mongolian soldier armour from imperial days, its well worth a visit. 

We welcome a hotel stay and shower tonight, with dinner at the lovely Chinese Restaurant and talk of the days activities and the road ahead. 

by Ourania Bolis